How To Replace Windows With Wood Siding

When Maddy Krauss and her hubby, Paul Friedberg, first laid eyes on their 1897 Shingle-style home, they barbarous in beloved with its handcrafted plough-of-the-century construction, wide front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were also delighted to notice that many of the original architectural details were still intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-drinking glass windows, and an ornate bandage-statuary fireplace.

The windows were some other story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era dwelling house, This Old House Boob tube's fall 2007 project in Newton, Massachusetts. The solution: Call in TOH general contractor Tom Silva and his crew to install free energy-efficient replacements.

Because the existing window frames were sound and foursquare, Tom could use insert replacement units—in this case, Andersen's Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad woods units fitted with free energy-saving, low-due east insulated glass. These fully assembled, ready-to-install windows slip right into the existing openings.

When the job was done, the house had beautiful new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul ane more thing to honey about their old house. Here'due south a await at how Tom fabricated the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.

How to Install Replacement Windows

ane. Window Replacement Parts

Illustration by Robert Hardin

Types of Replacement Windows

Different full-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. They're available in dozens of standard sizes, from as narrow as 11 ½ inches to every bit broad every bit 68 inches, and come in wood, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad wood, and aluminum-clad wood.

At that place are three basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom institute on the Newton house—requite an quondam window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, and then the sash are slipped in between.

For these to work, the existing window frame must be level and square. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a ready-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs. Because yous're adding new jambs and liners, the glass area volition be slightly smaller than it was before.

Total-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they take a consummate frame that includes caput jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the merely choice when the erstwhile window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, yous must strip the window opening down to its rough framing, inside and out.

2. Measuring for Replacements

Photograph past Russell Kaye

The about of import step in the window-replacement process happens long before installation day. It'south when you measure the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure yous social club a replacement unit that's the right size. Hither's how to practice it.

• Start past measuring the inside width of the old window frame, jamb to jamb, in iii places: across the top, heart, and bottom. Write down the smallest of the 3 measurements.
• Side by side, mensurate the frame's tiptop from the top of the sill to the underside of the caput jamb in three places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right. Again, record the smallest measurement.
• Cheque the squareness of the frame past measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The two dimensions should be the same. If the frame is out of square past 1/four inch or and then, don't worry; the replacement tin can be shimmed to fit. Annihilation more may require adjustments to the frame. If the frame is and so out of whack that a square replacement wouldn't look right, you'll need a total-frame replacement.
• Finally, use an angle-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come up with a choice of sill angles.

iii. Have Out the Sash

Photo by Russell Kaye

• The first step is to remove the old sash from the window frame. In most cases, you'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. (If you're planning to reinstall the stops, exercise this job advisedly; they suspension easily.)
• Next, have out the parting beads to gratis the upper sash. If your windows, similar these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, there won't be any chaplet. Simply printing in on the jamb liners and pull the top of the sash forrard.
• Then pivot ane side of the sash upward to gratis it from the jamb liners.

4. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, apply a flat bar to pry them free. In the example of an original window, remove whatever remaining wooden stops from the window frame.
• Go out the interior and outside casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Scrape off all loose and blistered paint and patch any holes or cracks with an exterior-course wood putty, such as the ones from Elmer's or Minwax.
• Then sand the jambs smooth, and prime and paint the surfaces.

half dozen. Remove the Erstwhile Sash Weights

Photo by Russell Kaye

• If the original sash weights are still in place, take this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate behind the window frame.
• Unscrew the admission panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

seven. Prep For Insulation

Photo by Russell Kaye

Tom likes polyurethane foam, because it's more than effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

• Make sure to use only low-pressure, minimally expanding cream intended for windows and doors; anything else will bow the frames and proceed the sash from working.
• First, pull out any existing fiberglass in the weight pockets.
• Then bore three/8-inch-bore holes, one most each finish and 1 in the center, downwards through the sill and up through the head jamb.

8. Spray in the Foam

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• Shoot the expanding cream into the holes until it begins to ooze out. (Tom is using a commercial system, but you can practice the same chore with cream from a can, like Dow's Great Stuff.)
• Too spray cream into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Allow the backlog to harden for at to the lowest degree half-dozen hours, and then intermission or cutting information technology off flush before replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.

9. Caulk the Opening

Photograph past Russell Kaye

• In training for installing the window, apply an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner confront of the exterior casings or to the blind stops on the top and sides of the frame. Too apply two continuous chaplet of caulk forth the windowsill.

10. Install the Window

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Working from within the room, set the bottom of the insert replacement onto the sill, then tip information technology upwardly into the opening. Press the window tight against the exterior casings or blind stops.

11. Fasten Information technology Loosely

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Hold the window in place with one two-inch spiral driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should be in just far enough to let the window to operate.
• Shut and lock the sash.

12. Shim as Necessary

Photo past Russell Kaye

• Adjust the unit of measurement by inserting shims under the sill and backside the side jambs until information technology is centered in the space and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
• Measure the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should exist the same. When the window is foursquare, screw information technology in place through the predrilled holes.
• To avoid bowing the frame, slip a shim backside the jamb at each screw, so screw through the shim.
• Trim the shims flush with a utility pocketknife.

xiii. Caulk, Prime number and Pigment

Photo by Russell Kaye

• From the outside, mensurate the gaps between the window frame and the casing. Fill gaps less than ane/iv inch broad with elastomeric caulk. Anything wider must showtime exist blimp with foam-rubber backer rod.
• On the inside, fill any gaps around the window with minimally expanding cream.
• Finish upward past reinstalling the stops or calculation new ones.
• Then prime and paint, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.

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Tools

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/windows/21016627/how-to-install-replacement-windows

Posted by: daughertywrintrah.blogspot.com

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